John and Elizabeth Travels

20.7.10 Big day on the roads again, and are horrified by the drivers. They are just suicidal. A semi trailer sideswipes us, but fortunately just collects the mirror on my side! The bang was enough to make me think we had lost half the truck! Stunning scenery thru the mountains, with cloud above and below us. 10 hrs trip to LIJIANE – another beautiful Old Town, and is our favourite “Old Town” so far. We had 2 days here, enjoying the markets, timber architecture, cobblestones, etc. Was hit by earthquake in ’96 & Chinese Govt impressed that Naxi style architecture survived, so rebuilt in cobblestones and wood, rather than concrete. We watch the Naxi people dance, and the men have very elaborate headgear. This race is matrilineal – the women have control! Affects language too – ‘stone’ plus female = boulder, but ‘stone plus male = pebble! Naxi Dancers John and friend TIGER LEAPING GORGE A spectacular 16km gorge, 4kms deep – but closed for 12 month! (Why did our so-called Tour Company n

12.7.10 8 hrs to depart Laos and enter China! We are issued with new drivers licences, new registration plates, the trucks brakes are tested, and we are on our way, with our new guide/chaperone – Andy. He is a pleasant 28yr old, good English, and we hope will fit in well. Just a hassle finding a spot for him to sit in the trucks, and we have to take him to a guest house each night, as our trucks are all designed for just two! He gets a better trip than we do, and we pay!! We have entered a 1st world country, immediately upon leaving a 3rd world country and the impact is huge! But not necessarily agreeable. Commercialism is rife, and the senses that have been beautifully lulled by the slow pace of life, are assaulted now. 10 tunnels & amazingly good roads; hillsides covered in rubber trees, and cultivation on every square centimetre, right to the top of the highest mountains! We visit the largest botanical gardens in China, which are lovely (but Butchart Gardens on Vancouver Island

We immediately notice a better quality of lifestyle. The best of Cambodians rural homes are not as good as the worst of Laos homes! (Many are still dirt poor – just less dirt! more substantial) Michael is determined to “follow the dotted lines”, so we take the road (even) less travelled! Much is potholed, and some bridges are very suspect! We hope to take an elephant ride, but trying to convince the staff at the eco lodge that 80,000 kip only equals $10 .. they cannot possibly see how 10 of ours can equal 80,000 of theirs! and we have to forfeit this excursion!At last, a little cooler! 1.7.10 , and at breakfast (of pancakes!! And fruit!!) Amazing breakfast for us! We speak with an English woman working for Care. She has been here 13 years, and loves it. We have headed onto the plateau – cooler, many beautiful waterfalls, coffee plantations. Some very dense jungle, and we are near the Ho Chi Minh Trail. We stay on the road, or clear tracks, as there are still many, many unexploded bombs

Frustratingly, Internet access is seldom available for us as most of our travels are in the country, and when we do get it, it's too slow. So do not know when the next edition of the blog will happen. Have just spend over an hour trying to update but cannot load pictures. Will update it again when we can. Thanks for your interest J & E

24.6.10 Phonm Penh Today we take a tuk tuk ride to “The School” (Section 21). Peter our tuk tuk driver lost his father, 2 sisters, and a brother, plus of course, their home and everything. He was only 7, but was tortured & forced to eat scalding hot porridge, and showed us the scars! This primary school was converted by Pol Pot & the Democratic Kampuchea (Khymer Rouge) to an interrogation and torture prison. A very sad place to visit. Approx 4 million disappeared. Sadly, those country dwellers who had the initiative to try to improve their lot, were sent back to the country as lower beings than the families they left. Phonm Penh was completely emptied, with everyone considered too wealthy, and sent to farmlands. Dispossessed, broken, separated, and friends set upon friends. And only 30 years ago! The following day we visit THE KILLING FIELDS. Again, very sad. Over 400 graves were found here, and almost 9000 bodies. We saw the Killing Tree – where the babies and youngsters were